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  • Reduce wastage

    Hi All,

    I wanted to create a thread for tips about reducing sediment in the fermenter and waste when bottling.

    I need the advice!

    John


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • #2
    Why is it a problem? Sometimes when I do "beer-on-beer" fermentations I end up with 5L deep sediment
    The Problem With The World Is That Everyone Is A Few Drinks Behind.!

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    • #3
      Originally posted by johncoram89 View Post
      Hi All,

      I wanted to create a thread for tips about reducing sediment in the fermenter and waste when bottling.

      I need the advice!

      John


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Bagging your hops during the boil will slightly reduce sediment in the fermenter
      2017 SANHC-Finals-German Pilsner.2019 Academy of Taste-1st Lager +1st Overall-German Leichtbier.2019 Free State Fermenters-1st Place-Australian Sparkling Ale.2019 SANHC-Final Round-German Leichtbier.2020 SANHC-Top 5-EishBock.2021 SANHC-Low Alcohol Cat: 2nd-2%Lager, Over All Cat: 2nd-Schwarzbier.2022 Free State Fermenters-1st-American light Lager.2022 Fools and Fans National Competition-Top 5-Dunkles Bock

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      • #4
        Originally posted by johncoram89 View Post
        Hi All,

        I wanted to create a thread for tips about reducing sediment in the fermenter and waste when bottling.

        I need the advice!

        John


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
        You're talking about racking loss, not sediment. Sediment you can't get around. Racking loss you can - rack less, and properly clear/cold crash the brew before racking/bottling.

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        • #5
          The sediment (yeastbed) that forms in the fermenter is the gazilmillions of yeast cells that have finished their work, along with the trub and proteins from the boil that ended up in the fermenter. And whatever else you threw into your fermenter during the fermentation (dry hopping, etc).

          You can reduce fermenter waste is various ways:
          1. Get your wort as clear as possible during the vorlauf step. This assumes you are doing all-grain. This can be "easily" achieved by pumping wort around, but is quite difficult by hand. I personally do not put too much effort into this.
          2. Reduce the amount of "stuff" that comes from your kettle. By stirring your kettle during the chilling process, your trub will form a little pyramid in the middle of the kettle. This means less trub will get tranferred to your fermenter. I usually run a about a liter of wort out of my kettle before going to fermenter; this picks up the trub around my tap and leaves a "clean" area to pull from. [1]
          3. Use a clarifier on your wort (in the boil). Irish moss and whirlfloc will help proteins settle out in the trub in the kettle, thus less stuff in your fermenter. [2]
          4. Cold crash your beer. This will make the beer clearer and it will make the yeastbed more compact
          5. Put your fermenter at a slight tilt, so that the most of the yeastbed forms on one side, the transfer from the other side
          6. Keep your siphon in a single location. Then the fist pull will pick up the surrounding yeastbed, but the rest will be clear(er).
          7. Use a conical fermenter and decant the yeast
          8. Adding gelatin to the beer (to harden the bed). This may affect bottling, so not 100% sure.

          There will always be a bit of waste. Check your deadspace/losses at mashtun, kettle and fermenter and use them in your brew volume calculations. That way you will always get the correct amount of beer at the end of fermentation.

          Bottling waste. I assume you refer to sediment in the bottle.
          1. Do not add too much sugar for carbonation
          2. Bottle a beer that has been cold crashed and fairly clear. The less stuff still floating in the beer, the less stuff will settle at the bottom of the bottle
          3. Filter your beer. Using a filter that will allow some yeast through, but catches most of the other stuff will help a lot. Not sure what size you will need.
          4. Filter and re-dose. Yes, filter your beer (1 micron) and add a very small amount of yeast into the bottle.
          5. Keg your beer, fill from keg.
          6. Make NEIPA or Weiss beers. They are supposed to be hazy!

          If you are referring to wasting beer during the bottling process, I would recommend a beer-wand or a siphon that has a clamp on it. Otherwise, use a bull clip on the tube


          [1] Increase your beersmith profile with a liter of deadspace/loss to ensure you still get the correct volume out)
          [2] Add the clarifier in at 5 minutes, otherwise they break down and release the proteins again.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by AtronSeige View Post
            The sediment (yeastbed) that forms in the fermenter is the gazilmillions of yeast cells that have finished their work, along with the trub and proteins from the boil that ended up in the fermenter. And whatever else you threw into your fermenter during the fermentation (dry hopping, etc).

            You can reduce fermenter waste is various ways:
            1. Get your wort as clear as possible during the vorlauf step. This assumes you are doing all-grain. This can be "easily" achieved by pumping wort around, but is quite difficult by hand. I personally do not put too much effort into this.
            2. Reduce the amount of "stuff" that comes from your kettle. By stirring your kettle during the chilling process, your trub will form a little pyramid in the middle of the kettle. This means less trub will get tranferred to your fermenter. I usually run a about a liter of wort out of my kettle before going to fermenter; this picks up the trub around my tap and leaves a "clean" area to pull from. [1]
            3. Use a clarifier on your wort (in the boil). Irish moss and whirlfloc will help proteins settle out in the trub in the kettle, thus less stuff in your fermenter. [2]
            4. Cold crash your beer. This will make the beer clearer and it will make the yeastbed more compact
            5. Put your fermenter at a slight tilt, so that the most of the yeastbed forms on one side, the transfer from the other side
            6. Keep your siphon in a single location. Then the fist pull will pick up the surrounding yeastbed, but the rest will be clear(er).
            7. Use a conical fermenter and decant the yeast
            8. Adding gelatin to the beer (to harden the bed). This may affect bottling, so not 100% sure.

            There will always be a bit of waste. Check your deadspace/losses at mashtun, kettle and fermenter and use them in your brew volume calculations. That way you will always get the correct amount of beer at the end of fermentation.

            Bottling waste. I assume you refer to sediment in the bottle.
            1. Do not add too much sugar for carbonation
            2. Bottle a beer that has been cold crashed and fairly clear. The less stuff still floating in the beer, the less stuff will settle at the bottom of the bottle
            3. Filter your beer. Using a filter that will allow some yeast through, but catches most of the other stuff will help a lot. Not sure what size you will need.
            4. Filter and re-dose. Yes, filter your beer (1 micron) and add a very small amount of yeast into the bottle.
            5. Keg your beer, fill from keg.
            6. Make NEIPA or Weiss beers. They are supposed to be hazy!

            If you are referring to wasting beer during the bottling process, I would recommend a beer-wand or a siphon that has a clamp on it. Otherwise, use a bull clip on the tube


            [1] Increase your beersmith profile with a liter of deadspace/loss to ensure you still get the correct volume out)
            [2] Add the clarifier in at 5 minutes, otherwise they break down and release the proteins again.
            Sho! Thank you for all that. There are certainly some tips I can take out of that. There are a few which I am unable to implement due to my basic equipment but I'm sure others will find this useful too.

            I have recently moved to the No chill method due to the drought but there is plenty I can improve on.

            Thanks,

            John





            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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            • #7
              for interests sake, read this (if you haven't already) - http://brulosophy.com/2014/06/02/the...esults-are-in/

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