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no sparge method

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  • no sparge method

    as homebrewers we sometimes do certain things simply because we read about it in a book somewhere. we have no real opinion about it other than 'because john palmer said so'.

    when i first started brewing, i was told by some apparently learned individual on the internet that i need to sparge to 'wash the grains of the last bit of sugars'. so i did it. no questions asked. after the first few dozen brews, after i started getting more aquainted with the process, i started noticing an alarming trend in all my batches. i was getting really crap effeciency. obviously one of the first things one looks at is grain crush but mine was good. after scouring the interwebs i became convinced it was because of my sparging method. at the time i was batch sparging and i read that fly sparging gives better effeciency. so i went on a mission to get set up for fly sparging but a few batches later and my efficiency was still bad. i found that my first runnings were of a decent gravity but the sparge runnings were very weak and diluting everything.

    i began to question the logic behind sparging. why do it then? over the next few batches i decided to no sparge at all and i was more than pleased with the results. then one day i discovered that there's actually a sparge method called 'no sparge'. the method is simple. increase the amount of grain slightly to compensate for the fact that you're not sparging and add all your water at once to the mash. easy.

    since then i have become a no sparge brewer. it's just much easier; less hassle. plus it shave off a huge chunk of time out of my brew day!

    if, like me, you've been having trouble with efficiency or you just want to simplify a little, give no sparging a try. i'll never revert back to sparging, that's for sure.

    the trick to no sparge brewing is to get the water to grain ratio just right. through trial and error i've come up with a pretty accurate table. it's been tried and tested and hasn't let me down yet. here it is:

    OG 1.035 1.041 1.048 1.051 1.054 1.057 1.059 1.064 1.069 1.074 1.080
    KGs Grain 3.6 4.5 5.4 5.9 6.4 6.8 7.3 8.1 9 10 11.3
    Liters Water 28.4 29.5 30.7 31.4 31.8 32.6 33.3 34.4 35.6 36.7 38.8
    EDIT: the above table is for a 20 liter batch.
    that guy al
    Senior Member
    Last edited by that guy al; 16 January 2015, 18:17.

  • #2
    Might make good small beer with second runnings . Sigh so many ppl still ask for light beer .. will try it tnx.

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    • #3
      I have never really sparged either.....
      I don't see why we all have to hit high efficiencies...
      You know your set up, if you have low efficiency you know you hafe to add a few more grams of grain.... or live with a lower OG.
      Or am I now having too many home brews whilst brewing?

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      • #4
        no sparge method

        I agree. Really high efficiencies, IMO are of little real consequence to the average homebrewer. It just means your beer might be a couple of bucks a batch more expensive than it might be.

        I would rather focus on consistency in process (hitting temperatures and gravity, time and again). After all that's what determine quality and repeatability of your beer, not efficiency. This of course assumes your efficiency remains fairly constant.
        Give a man a beer, waste an hour. Teach a man to brew, and waste a lifetime!

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        • #5
          No Sparge is the basis for a classic full volume BIAB. I've been able to do some with an average efficiency over 70%. From what I read a mash-out and 90 minute mash improve the efficiency with the full volume mash and no sparge.

          While the actual efficiency is not critical (assuming you're getting over 60%), it is more important to know what your average is.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by ljm109 View Post
            ..... I don't see why we all have to hit high efficiencies...
            You know your set up, if you have low efficiency you know you hafe to add a few more grams of grain.... or live with a lower OG.....
            well said. that's pretty much the point i was trying to make. we're told that we should be getting high efficiencies and yes, i suppose in theory you want to get as much bang out of your grain as possible but really, it's not like it's that expensive. simply adding an extra kg or two and adding the 'sparge water' to the mash, i'm able to hit my target OG with incredible accuracy, regardless of whether it's 'efficient' or not.

            Originally posted by ljm109 View Post
            Or am I now having too many home brews whilst brewing?
            too many homebrews? pfffft, those words make no sense in the same sentence

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            • #7
              This makes the assumption that your mashtun is big enough to allow this.
              If you only have a 25l tun, you're pretty much gonna have to sparge to fill a 25l fermenter

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              • #8
                Originally posted by MongooseMan View Post
                This makes the assumption that your mashtun is big enough to allow this.
                If you only have a 25l tun, you're pretty much gonna have to sparge to fill a 25l fermenter
                get a second mash tun. there, i solved the problem for you.

                you're welcome.

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