+1 i would not dilute ... not a fan of messing with beer volumes after fermentation . It is what it is and will still be drinkable ... we love and learn and do it right the next time
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My first lager
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Originally posted by Langchop View Post+1 Agree steady temps seem to give best results, as well as no real need for the yeast nutrients with this grain bill. I have only used 34/70 twice. It seemed to take a bit longer than US05 (my staple) but it did clear well, even without gelatine, but I would still use gelatine if you want to give it a helping hand.
I would tend to just leave the beer as a 6% ABV Pilsner. Cos you are going to be diluting everything. flavour, bitterness etc. Its also a bit of a personal thing, I dilute just about every step in my brewday, but I dont like to water down after fermentation. Thats not to say its not done.
Anyway; I’ll wait and see what the FG (and ABV) is, but won’t dilute before bottling as I have no idea how and never have before. There’s more constant airlock activity today even though the temp is kept constant at 12° in my ferm chamber. I’ll wait till it subsides and then take a gravity reading.
If this beer doesn’t taste great, I’ll add water to the fermenter before adding the wort if my pre-boil gravity is the same as this time with the next batch.
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Originally posted by Mouter View PostI started the boil with 25 l and topped up with boiling water late in the boil. I didn’t expect such a high OG. The recipe called for 0,4kg each of Cara clair (I mistakenly typed Carapils in my OP) and Munich. I bought 1kg of each for two batches and didn’t want to waste the 100g each. Can’t think that would bump up the OG that much though.
Anyway; I’ll wait and see what the FG (and ABV) is, but won’t dilute before bottling as I have no idea how and never have before. There’s more constant airlock activity today even though the temp is kept constant at 12° in my ferm chamber. I’ll wait till it subsides and then take a gravity reading.
If this beer doesn’t taste great, I’ll add water to the fermenter before adding the wort if my pre-boil gravity is the same as this time with the next batch.
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PS. overshooting SG is a great problem to haveCheers,
Lang
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"Dudddde...Hold my beer!".... ; "I wonder what will happen if I ...."
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Originally posted by Langchop View PostThe dilution calculations often arent that exact (but it might be cos of my refractometer use rather than hydrometer), so if you can, add a bit less water, double check SG and then add the balance if required. Although chasing exact figures is largely irrelevant in my mind.
PS. overshooting SG is a great problem to have
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Originally posted by Langchop View Post+1 Agree steady temps seem to give best results, as well as no real need for the yeast nutrients with this grain bill. I have only used 34/70 twice. It seemed to take a bit longer than US05 (my staple) but it did clear well, even without gelatine, but I would still use gelatine if you want to give it a helping hand.
I would tend to just leave the beer as a 6% ABV Pilsner. Cos you are going to be diluting everything. flavour, bitterness etc. Its also a bit of a personal thing, I dilute just about every step in my brewday, but I dont like to water down after fermentation. Thats not to say its not done.
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Originally posted by Mouter View PostWill there be a marked difference if I brew the same grain bill and hops but use US-05? I have two jars harvested from a previous pale ale and a sachet of dry US-05. I’m going to harvest this yeast anyway, and if the beer is good use it for the other batch.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkCheers,
Lang
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Dudddde...Hold my beer!".... ; "I wonder what will happen if I ...."
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Originally posted by Langchop View PostUS05 is a very clean ale yeast, but it's still going to be very different to using a different lager yeast. Honestly though. I basically an unadventurous with yeasts and get my flavours from grain and hops. Someone else can answer this way better than me
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Originally posted by Mouter View PostDamn this yeast is slow!
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Originally posted by Dewald Posthumus View PostTry getting your hands on some Kveik Oslo for your next Lager/ Pilsner/ Blonde - it is quickly becoming one of my favourite yeasts. Good clean profile, the Blonde I brewed on Saturday is already at 1.010, ready to be cold crashed, just waiting for the yeast to clean up.
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Originally posted by groenspookasem View Posttl/dr;
watering down beer. / post fermentation ew, no.
adding water at sparge or preboil, sure.
watering down chilled wort. ew, no, but at the bare minimum, boil it first.
My Marzen was watered down from 1.062 to 1.054, for example. I don't want such a big beer. I overshot purely because I was lax with the calculations, and that's on me, I know. I know my efficiency with my process is 90% and more, yet I still worked on 80%.
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Originally posted by Toxxyc View PostI water down my chilled wort from time to time. I sometimes overshoot the gravity with 10 points or more, and that won't do for me. For example, a 7.5% ABV stout will be fine, but if I'm making a pilsner, there's no point in pitching the lager yeast into a wort at 1.068, for example. That's why I water down (I keep water on hand for that). Boiled water, lid never off, wait to cool and then add as much as I need.
My Marzen was watered down from 1.062 to 1.054, for example. I don't want such a big beer. I overshot purely because I was lax with the calculations, and that's on me, I know. I know my efficiency with my process is 90% and more, yet I still worked on 80%.
these days i fill kegs only, no bottling! i dont want the extra volume.
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