Random small questions

[RudiC Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RudiC]

Personally for maintaining mash temps a proper PID with ssr would be the most reliable way to maintain mash temps. A scr I would use to control the boil intensity only.

But to each his own alot of guys use stc-1000 to maintain mash temps.. I did it before I built my PID, it works ok but it always overshot temp by about 2-3 degrees when I had grain in.

Check Rikus thread in the equipment sub for his controller build he has everything pid and scr in one control box.. its a really cool build

I just checked his thread again now. Didn't notice the SCR, only checked the first few pages. Followed that build and learned a lot, like other threads too. The other positive thing about the PID route is that they're available locally, so that would also save time. So maybe I will go this route and also import a 6000w or higher watt SCR to control boil intensity. That should then sort this issue out permanently.

Thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated

[Toxxyc Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Toxxyc]

Might be a good idea to give instructions on how to wire this up and not just a shopping list. Especially if you consider that you are recommending people to hook this up to mains.

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Same as an STC-1000, actually. The SSR is used to switch the live wire. Neutral and earth go straight to the element. The pot is simply placed on the SSR's input side, where there are markings indicating a 500k potentiometer to be wired in.

[Langchop Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Langchop]

You can search for SCR and I *think* PWM does a similar thing (stand to be corrected on this)

If boil intensity is what you want to control, these are probably your cheapest and simplest options.

I would just go for a 10 000w and be done with it, so you have a good safety margin

[Toxxyc Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Toxxyc]

Yeah my SSR controller should be able to handle up to 17,000W. In theory, anyway.

[atunguyd Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close atunguyd]

Same as an STC-1000, actually. The SSR is used to switch the live wire. Neutral and earth go straight to the element. The pot is simply placed on the SSR's input side, where there are markings indicating a 500k potentiometer to be wired in.

The SSR you have linked has no indication for a 500k pot as in input - it takes a 3-18V DC input for a hard on/off signal.
I honestly don't see how just putting a 500k pot across that input is going to do anything.

Also that SSR you have linked looks strange to me - the picture shows 25A Max, the description says 50A and the description says 60A.

The price tells me that this is a forgery SSR very popular on the net - they are actually really rated to half their rating (so in your case either 12, 25 or 30A, but I suspect 12 really at that price point).

Don't expect that SSR to last for long - a real 50A SSR would have cost you a hell of a lot more and should be being used with a pretty large heatsink. https://www.mantech.co.za/ProductInf...Item=65M3256-H

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[Chris S Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chris S]

Guys I see a lot of recipes online saying 5 gallons. I know it's 19 Litres.
I suppose that this is because Corney kegs are 19 litres.
What is confusing me is the 5 gallons is that total fermenter volume or bottling volume? Giving that you lose around 2L to trub.

Brewfather batch volume calculates for total fermenter volume and not bottling.

Should I build the recipe in brew father for 19L as that's the size of the recipe and then scale it to 21L. So I can have 19L bottling volume?

[SykomantiS Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close SykomantiS]

Guys I see a lot of recipes online saying 5 gallons. I know it's 19 Litres.
I suppose that this is because Corney kegs are 19 litres.
What is confusing me is the 5 gallons is that total fermenter volume or bottling volume? Giving that you lose around 2L to trub.

Brewfather batch volume calculates for total fermenter volume and not bottling.

Should I build the recipe in brew father for 19L as that's the size of the recipe and then scale it to 21L. So I can have 19L bottling volume?

Brewfather can take your fermenter losses (trub) into account, in your equipment profile you can specify batch volume target, batch volume and fermenter loss (amongst other losses you can also enter). You can use this, set your batch volume to 21L into the fermenter and your fermenter loss as 2 litre, giving you 19L bottling volume.

Edit to add, regarding your final question, I would build it 19L, scale to 21L so I can get 19L bottled, BUT, I would use the original recipe gravities and abv to double check if the scaling is indeed needed and correct. Your equipment profile will also impact your final volume (and other characteristics) if your efficiency and boil off rates differ from that in the original recipe, so use the given info to check that you'll end up where you want to be.

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[Chris S Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chris S]

Brewfather can take your fermenter losses (trub) into account, in you equipment profile you can specify batch volume target, batch volume and fermenter loss (amongst other losses you can also enter). You can use this, set your batch volume to 21L into the fermenter and your fermenter loss as 2 litre, giving you 19L bottling volume.

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Thanks. That I know.
I'm really just confused about online recipes saying 5 gallons which is 19L

If my batch volume is 21L then will I scale that recipe from 19L to 21L?

You see the recipes are not clear. They could be meaning 5 gallons fermenter volume or 5 gallons keg volume.

[SykomantiS Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close SykomantiS]

Thanks. That I know.
I'm really just confused about online recipes saying 5 gallons which is 19L

If my batch volume is 21L then will I scale that recipe from 19L to 21L?

You see the recipes are not clear. They could be meaning 5 gallons fermenter volume or 5 gallons keg volume.

I get what you're saying. I think unless the author specifies, it's really not possible to tell. Personally I think the other information supplied in the recipe is more important. Because essentially you scale to what you need. I think as long as you can hit the numbers, your volume should only really be what you need it to be.

[Toxxyc Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Toxxyc]

The SSR you have linked has no indication for a 500k pot as in input - it takes a 3-18V DC input for a hard on/off signal.
I honestly don't see how just putting a 500k pot across that input is going to do anything.

Also that SSR you have linked looks strange to me - the picture shows 25A Max, the description says 50A and the description says 60A.

The price tells me that this is a forgery SSR very popular on the net - they are actually really rated to half their rating (so in your case either 12, 25 or 30A, but I suspect 12 really at that price point).

Don't expect that SSR to last for long - a real 50A SSR would have cost you a hell of a lot more and should be being used with a pretty large heatsink. https://www.mantech.co.za/ProductInf...Item=65M3256-H

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk

Huh. I swear it looked different when I took the link. It's supposed to look like this one:

[Chris S Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chris S]

I get what you're saying. I think unless the author specifies, it's really not possible to tell. Personally I think the other information supplied in the recipe is more important. Because essentially you scale to what you need. I think as long as you can hit the numbers, your volume should only really be what you need it to be.

OK cool. Thanks for explaining. I'll play with the software a bit.

[Setsumi Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Setsumi]

Personally for maintaining mash temps a proper PID with ssr would be the most reliable way to maintain mash temps. A scr I would use to control the boil intensity only.

But to each his own alot of guys use stc-1000 to maintain mash temps.. I did it before I built my PID, it works ok but it always overshot temp by about 2-3 degrees when I had grain in.

Check Rikus thread in the equipment sub for his controller build he has everything pid and scr in one control box.. its a really cool build

Cummunica has a 10kW AC speed/dimmer

[RudiC Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RudiC]

Cummunica has a 10kW AC speed/dimmer

Thanks, I will make a plan to get one of these

[atunguyd Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close atunguyd]

Huh. I swear it looked different when I took the link. It's supposed to look like this one:

Aaah ok that makes a lot more sense thanks the SSR that was in the link you posted.

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[Mark250GP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mark250GP]

How long does no rinse sanitiser stay a sanitiser before it turns to water.

In a bottle or on equipment and in a bucket with a closed lid.