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They usually just send you an SMS with their banking details and a reference. One you paid your tracking details will say that you paid and then you can expect delivery a few days later.
Thanks, Will go that route then
The Problem With The World Is That Everyone Is A Few Drinks Behind.!
Yeah Beachless is correct, they will email and sms you with the details. Sometimes they allocate the payment on the same day but other times it takes a day or two to get it done.
Got my PID's from banggood this week. I also found a media player in the junk box and decided to use it as my new control box. Then picked up some switches and connectors at communica.
Got my PID's from banggood this week. I also found a media player in the junk box and decided to use it as my new control box. Then picked up some switches and connectors at communica.
Love this, I'm assuming the existing ventilation is sufficient for the heatsinks?
Love this, I'm assuming the existing ventilation is sufficient for the heatsinks?
I don't really know at this point to be honest. I had a look online and they said up to 10amps without a heatsink should be OK and that SSR's need roughly 1,5w per amp dissipation so I would need 20w(13amp) worth of cooling. I'm going to try a piece of aluminium channel I have lying around and the fan running and see how hot it gets.
A good quality mechanical relay would probably be good for switching the element for this much water. I'm not sure these cheap SSR's are really the right choice in this scenario. But will update once I run a few tests. Still waiting on some parts to finish the build though.
I always thought mechanical relays were a good option, but I read somewhere they are not ideal for high resistive loads as the constant arcing eventually welds them closed? Something like that
Cheers,
Lang
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"Dudddde...Hold my beer!".... ; "I wonder what will happen if I ...."
For the simple man, such as myself, how could I safely control my mash with a STC1000? It's a 10amp switch and the elements on the urn obviously require a bit more. My STC gets warm/hot which makes me worried but is not as alarming when I take the lid off the Tupperware its houses in. What am I risking by doing this? A fire? What can I do to mitigate this on my current system?
Got my PID's from banggood this week. I also found a media player in the junk box and decided to use it as my new control box. Then picked up some switches and connectors at communica.
About the only good use left for a mede8er! Cool looking build, are you using the old active cooling for the SSR's?
Whatever you do dont go running an SSR without a heatsink, I did some tests and it will go really badly.
I don't really know at this point to be honest. I had a look online and they said up to 10amps without a heatsink should be OK and that SSR's need roughly 1,5w per amp dissipation so I would need 20w(13amp) worth of cooling. I'm going to try a piece of aluminium channel I have lying around and the fan running and see how hot it gets.
I doubt that would be enough to be honest. I have a 2.5kw element in my 35L urn and when I was doing boil tests before my first brew the heatsink got too hot to touch.
It gets hot when there is current flowing through and cools a little when its in the off state. I have a fairly beefy graphics card heatsink on mine and I had to add the fan that was on the card to it.
Managed to do a 60 min mash + 90 min boil on it for my first brew today. Definitely would have been a problem without the fan.
For the simple man, such as myself, how could I safely control my mash with a STC1000? It's a 10amp switch and the elements on the urn obviously require a bit more. My STC gets warm/hot which makes me worried but is not as alarming when I take the lid off the Tupperware its houses in. What am I risking by doing this? A fire? What can I do to mitigate this on my current system?
Use the STC to switch an external relay.
See THIS post for what I mean (still want to do this myself to put less stress on the STC relays)
The Problem With The World Is That Everyone Is A Few Drinks Behind.!
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