Basic Keg Setup-Considering Options for Future

[JIGSAW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close JIGSAW]

It's an extinguisher tank Jakes. They are designed to discharge liquid co2. And not just gas from the top, so they have a dip tube. In reality it turns to gas immediately but it discharges a lot more in this way.

From what I understand, the sudden expansion and cooling of the liquid turning into gas within the regulator can damage or reduce life of the regulator.

The damage risk does seem to be legit per part manufacturers... The reasoning behind it seems to be folk lore and urban legend.

Normal co2 tanks don't have dip tubes.

+1 COČ is stored as a liquid inside those tanks .. and if you let it our to fast via the pickup tiptube, the liquid turns into ice particles that could freeze the regulator and cause damage. ...

not that we do let out COČ that fast, but accidents could happen

[Langchop Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Langchop]

Just leave it at that pressure for a few days. Maybe go up to around 0.8 bar.

Is the 0.8 bar about the range to just keep the keg sealed or is that with the intention to get it lightly carbonated?

[groenspookasem Banned Find all posts View Profile Close groenspookasem]

My 2c, I bang it on 30psi for a day or two, then drop to 10 psi. A carbonation guided is a quick Google away

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[JIGSAW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close JIGSAW]

Is the 0.8 bar about the range to just keep the keg sealed or is that with the intention to get it lightly carbonated?

At 80Kpa (and cold) it will get fully carbed ready to drink in about a week I think?

I also do what "groen" said ... 24-48 Hrs at ± 200Kpa .... then drop to ± 50Kpa ... pour and drink

[jakeslouw Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close jakeslouw]

At 80Kpa (and cold) it will get fully carbed ready to drink in about a week I think?

I also do what "groen" said ... 24-48 Hrs at ± 200Kpa .... then drop to ± 50Kpa ... pour and drink

exactly

I tend to forget the bloody thing at 2 bar and then I have over carbonated beer. So I go for a strong dispensing pressure and just leave it there for a 5 days and then test it.

Or else I keg condition if it is just going to be in storage for a while.

If you keg and the keg is going straight into your keezer/kegarator, just put it on 1 bar for about 5 days and when your mates come over next weekend it will be just about perfect. Ice cold and slightly foamy. Rather a little too much head then none at all, said the priest to the prostitute........

[Langchop Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Langchop]

Ok so an unforeseen challenge has crept upon me and Google doesn't seem to have much to say about it.

Beer has now been carbonation for a week and I have been having daily tasters.

Last night I discovered leaking all over the outside of the spout. I then discovered a tiny weep hole right at the top of the spout junction, and when dispensing, beer comes out of this hole as well. Maybe there is a reason and it's supposed to do this for some reason? Just send unhygienic having tap spout coated in sticky beer.

It's a TOF tap with flow control, and as far as I know, does not have a creamer action anything.

IMG_20190302_063838.jpg. IMG_20190302_063800.jpg

Is this right?

[JIGSAW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close JIGSAW]

Does it happen with both taps?

My taps also have those holes at the bottom, but I've never noticed beer coming out there

[Langchop Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Langchop]

Well I have never used the other tap. I have another unattached tap which I just pulled apart to check. Suffice to say I am mightily confused. Into the main body cavity, the spout has a main hole and an extra little weep hole. Then there is that extra little weep hole I mentioned. It theoretically is open to the body cavity but then gets 'covered' (distinctly not 'sealed') by the piston when pouring.

I get the impression it's a drain vent like you get on many plastic bucket taps.

More interesting is that the front end with the flat screw is also totally unsealed when pouring, implying it just relies on gravity to go down the spout first.

[jakeslouw Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close jakeslouw]

I've also never seen anything come out of there. Maybe phone Bevan and ask him WTF it is.

Bevan: 083 417 7543

[Langchop Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Langchop]

Yea I will ask the supplier I got it from. I put the compensator throttle on near full choke and then open the tap quickly and fully when pouring. I still see a little bead forming at the hole but then it sucks away when closing the tap. Maybe that's how it's meant to work and I just don't know it.

Just another thing... The handle operates pulling towards yourself and then it also can be pushed back to a lesser degree. From pulling it apart, the piston has a spring on it to enable this. Is this actually a creamer function?

[atunguyd Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close atunguyd]

This link explains how the purpose of those holes

http://www.draft-beer-made-easy.com/beertaps.html

The push back option on your tap forced the beer through a small hole and does indeed foam it up.
Not sure how this compares to a proper creamier action tap as I have never tried one or perhaps this is what a creamier action tap is? It is definitely not a stout tap as that requires a second Nitrogen input from what I have read.


Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

[Langchop Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Langchop]

Thanks for that Atunguyd. I had actually read that article and managed to skim over that pretty important part. Not sure why it has two holes that do the same thing. It seems to be really hard to find sectioned views of a tap!

Anyway, on googling the manufacturer and tap model , and lots of Google translate, it seems it is in fact a creamer tap, though never seems to be marketed as such.
Actually a very clever little design compared to complicated designs I have found.
A little experiment (in the name of science again) confirmed same. I'm happy about that!

Screenshot_20190304-083619.jpg

Still getting a few drips out the drain hole tho.

[PaBz0r Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close PaBz0r]

Reviving this thread a bit, as I took some measurements and bought a few things to start a Keezer build.

I was wondering for those that have Keezers are you still happy with your initial design, are there pains that you would want to change? What would you do differently and any advice?

Collar:
I am going to have a Kiaat front and shutterply sides/back, planning to use isowall for insulation. I am going to build it high, about 600mm, as I won't be able to open the lid where it is standing, if I put a collar on, thus I need to make a door that swings open to the front, so that I can still get in there to put in the kegs etc. I am wondering if I need to put in fans to help circulate seeing, that I am adding a lot of extra space that needs cooling?

Temp:
I have a STC that I want to mount, I am not sure what to do with the probe, currently I stick it to a keg that is in there, is there a better option? It seems to fluctuate as the keg gets empty, perhaps I need to stick it lower.

Regulators:
I got hold of a few secondhand secondary regulators, planning to mount them inside and leave the bottle outside with the primary.

Taps:
Currently have Talos taps with flow control. Using 3/8 beer line. Thinking of going for 4 tap setup as I make some progress. I got hold of some 3/16" line, not convinced about it, easier to work with, just like the clear line I guess?

Drip Tray:
Not sure what to do yet, I see there are some options, was thinking of making something with the Kiaat where I can then lay a SS tray on.

Kegs:
Ball-lock corny's, have originals and then these that kegsolutions brought in, seem to be a bit fatter and shorter. Maybe with the extra height I can fit 4..

Any comments please what else am I missing?

[BackOffMyBrew Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close BackOffMyBrew]

On the STC. Not sure if you already have it set up as such but I avoided plugging the freezer into a plug connected to the STC cooling relay. I just disconnected the freezers thermostat and wired those directly into the cooling relay on the STC. Makes wiring a lot simpler

[groenspookasem Banned Find all posts View Profile Close groenspookasem]

you could put some wheels underneath and roll it out to fully open the lid? mine collar is high and lifting the kegs over is a slight pita, but not too much. my stc probe lives in a beer bottle filled with water, works well enough. gas bottle outside is good. also have f/c taps, whatever brand brewcraft sold at the time. i have no need for more taps, more important is your making sure your cleaning cycles and beers waiting to be kegged lines up, nothing worse than an empty keg. drip tray needs to be 'easy to clean' - that was my only requirement. add a fan to recirc cold air. i also store some hops and yeast in my keezer