No Chill Method

[jakeslouw Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close jakeslouw]

Picture of said container or where to purchase from?

Plastic Land I think? Plastic World?

Something like this but clear poly plastic:

[JIGSAW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close JIGSAW]

^ Aah cool, those are nice! ... I take it it's HDPE2 ??

[jakeslouw Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close jakeslouw]

^ Aah cool, those are nice! ... I take it it's HDPE2 ??

I dunno

Will have a look at one later for markings, but it is obviously food grade, just dunno how it will handle heat @ 70+degC

[Courtney99 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Courtney99]

Hi Guys,

This is my first time posting but I feel I can add some experience here. I am quite new to brewing (especially all grain) and only have about 6 all grain batches to brag about. I have very limited resources (space,funds and time) available to me so have had to learn to make do without lots of the equipment most people call "absolutely essential".

One luxury I have never had is a wort chiller so I have been "no-chill" from the start and have had no issues and consistent results from the start.

Anyway,here is my experience with "No-Chill":
*I pour my hot wort straight into my (normal white 30l HDPE bucket) fermenter from flameout,in my opinion the hotter the better as it helps sterilise the fermenter.
*I put on an airlock,but keep an eye as the expanding gas makes it lose lots of fluid(whiskey or Vodka in my case) and also creates vacuum when cooling so you dont want too much fluid overflowing into the fermenter.
*I just add an extra 10 mins to my hop times,dry hopping gets added when I pitch the yeast.
*I let it cool down to luke warm to the touch (usually about 24 hours) and add it my fermenting fridge
*Once at pitching temp (measured from the STC-probe taped to fermentor) I sterilise,open the lid and pitch yeast.
*Continue on fermenting as usual.

I can imagine that this also saves lots of time and simplifies the process over having to wait for the wort to chill and deal with sticky chillers and hosepipes and water all over the show.

Well that my 2 cents,hope it helps anyone wanting to try it.

[Harhm Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Harhm]

Hi Guys,

This is my first time posting but I feel I can add some experience here. I am quite new to brewing (especially all grain) and only have about 6 all grain batches to brag about. I have very limited resources (space,funds and time) available to me so have had to learn to make do without lots of the equipment most people call "absolutely essential".

One luxury I have never had is a wort chiller so I have been "no-chill" from the start and have had no issues and consistent results from the start.

Anyway,here is my experience with "No-Chill":
*I pour my hot wort straight into my (normal white 30l HDPE bucket) fermenter from flameout,in my opinion the hotter the better as it helps sterilise the fermenter.
*I put on an airlock,but keep an eye as the expanding gas makes it lose lots of fluid(whiskey or Vodka in my case) and also creates vacuum when cooling so you dont want too much fluid overflowing into the fermenter.
*I just add an extra 10 mins to my hop times,dry hopping gets added when I pitch the yeast.
*I let it cool down to luke warm to the touch (usually about 24 hours) and add it my fermenting fridge
*Once at pitching temp (measured from the STC-probe taped to fermentor) I sterilise,open the lid and pitch yeast.
*Continue on fermenting as usual.

I can imagine that this also saves lots of time and simplifies the process over having to wait for the wort to chill and deal with sticky chillers and hosepipes and water all over the show.

Well that my 2 cents,hope it helps anyone wanting to try it.

Welcome to the forum

I can't see that your method would not work, the only difference is that you pitch yeast within +- 24 hours into wort that has O2 in headspace above it as to a cube that has practically zero O2 ezposure and that you can conveniently keep the sealed cube until you have space and time to ferment it.

As with your method the 1st thing to consider I think would be exposing the wort to air in the headspace but then again it should not be a actual problem as you do not handle the closed bucket that much and the wort is sitting in a sterilised environment with the air above it that was mostly steam in the 1st place.

With fermenting in the cube my biggest concern was the higher volume of cold break/kettle trub that is part of the fermentation, then again the Brulosophy trub experiments shows that it does not have a negative impact on the beer.

My reasoning behind fermenting in the cube was that you pitch yeast into a already cleaned, sanitised and heated by close to boiling wort cube/container in so doing you would minimise the chances of nasty's during transvers from the cube to the fermenter i.e. exactly what you are doing

As a additional convenience factor to no-chill fermenting in the cube I was thinking that I could pull my starter from the cube (without creating headspace) seal the cube again while building up my starter. When my starter is ready open the cube, let the cube expand to create headspace, shake the cube to aerate and then pitch the starter from the original wort that I took from the cube and then ferment in the cube.

or I could just pour some wort out of the cube to create headspace for fermentation, shake to aerate and then pitch a starter made from fresh wort that I prepared from scratch 2 days prior.
Or I can also use the wort that I took from the 1st cube to create headspace to make a starter for my 2nd beer that I then pitch the next day.

How do you aerate your wort in the bucket before pitching the yeast?

[Harhm Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Harhm]

Let us know how it goes. We need to be water-savvy on the farm, so this is a good idea.

I have fermented 9 batches in the cube without any issues.

I just open the cube, pour out +- 2 litres of wort to create enough headspace for fermenting, aerate, add yeast and ferment as normal.

Just get yourself some extra caps for the cubes, drill a hole in the cap, fit a top hat rubber seal and a airlock or a blow off tube and you are ready to go

[JIGSAW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close JIGSAW]

I have fermented 9 batches in the cube without any issues.

I just open the cube, pour out +- 3 litres of wort to create enough headspace for fermenting, aerate, add yeast and ferment as normal.

Just get yourself some extra caps for the cubes, drill a hole in the cap, fit a top hat rubber seal and a airlock or a blow off tube and you are ready to go

In all the years I have been doing No-chill I've never done or seen the reason to fill these cubes to the brim. I use 25L cubes and only fill to ±20L and never had a problem .... why would a 5L sanitized and filled with steam headspace be a problem??

[The Flying Brew Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close The Flying Brew]

why would a 5L sanitized and filled with steam headspace be a problem??

Probably oxidation? I just use 20l cubes which I fill and then pour over at pitching temp into Fermenter when yeast is ready. Would use larger cubes if my Fermenters could take more.

[JIGSAW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close JIGSAW]

Probably oxidation? I just use 20l cubes which I fill and then pour over at pitching temp into Fermenter when yeast is ready. Would use larger cubes if my Fermenters could take more.

but that's what you want in your wort pre-fermentation

[Setsumi Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Setsumi]

but that's what you want in your wort pre-fermentation

Not in hot wort, although there are info that states oxidation on home scale is minor.

[jakeslouw Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close jakeslouw]

The whole hot-side oxygenation thing is a myth. I've seen commercial brewers recirculating so hard the wort froths.

We've also tested that on MANY home brews and we've never had a problem with any pre-fermentation oxygenation.

In fact, the ONLY time oxygen is a problem is POST FERMENTATION.

[getack Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close getack]

When filling the cube, steam displaces the air very quickly.

I also fill my 25l cube with about 20l wort and 5l headspace. By the time the wort is cool that 5l headspace has collapsed to less than 1 liter.

Oxidation is not an issue here.

[Harhm Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Harhm]

I realy pushed the limmits on this beer, its a BIAB Lite Lager that I No-chilled and kept in my garage for 6 months I did a fast ferment in 3 weeks, crashed for 2 days, bottled and this is what it look like after after 10 days in the bottle.

IMG-20171124-WA0001.jpg

Cleen and crisp like a Spring morning

[that guy al Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close that guy al]

I realy pushed the limmits on this beer, its a BIAB Lite Lager that I No-chilled and kept in my garage for 6 months I did a fast ferment in 3 weeks, crashed for 2 days, bottled and this is what it look like after after 10 days in the bottle.

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Cleen and crisp like a Spring morning

that's quite incredible

[The Flying Brew Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close The Flying Brew]

Your beer looks great Harhm.

Hot side aeration i understand is not really applicable on a homebrew level. Oxidation of wort is not necessarily the same thing, however the 5l head space in a 25l is probably then simply not enough O2 to cause any noticeable harm..

If beer produced in a coolship doesn't have oxidation issues, then I suppose the matter is settled.